Read Drink & Be Merry

I was recently asked to help out at Richmond Magazine with their Top 25 Restaurants issue that just hit the stands a few days ago.  Tina E did a great job as my editor, taking my rather lengthy thoughts and condensing them down to a more reasonable length for the feature.  You should rush out a get a copy and read it – if that leaves you wanting a bit more then here is the full piece on Edo’s Squid……

Most people have a list of restaurants that they go to frequently.  Within that list is usually a place or two that you head for whenever family or friends show up from out of town.  One of those places for us is Edo’s Squid.

First, the space is very interesting.  The narrow staircase is scary at best and may make one wonder about the quality of the food at the top.  Once at there is a simple open space of wood floors and bare brick walls.  Also, something unusual in Richmond, a bit of a view – beyond just the drunk VCU students wander the street below.  The space can get loud when busy and it is nearly always busy.  Even with a reservation you can have a bit of a wait at times but the food really is worth it.

Ordering Calamari for an appetizer is almost de rigueur.  Obviously fresh and expertly fried you know you’re in the right place when you sample the most excellent marinara sauce that accompanies the squid.  For something else special there is the Braised Fennel, simple yet full of flavor or my person favorite – Chopped Liver.  Cooked to perfection, without a hint of dryness, and combined with hard-boiled eggs the result is soft textures and creaminess that causes a rush of knives to get the last bits.  If liver isn’t your style try the Conch Insalata – slices of conch marinated in olive oil and vinegar with garlic.  A wonderful balance of flavors, textures and acids that will wake you up and smile.

The main menu is split into two parts.  The pasta combinations are on the printed menu and then white sheets on the wall with all the fresh meats and fishes.  Creamy and salty Carbonara is a winner for both kids and adults but for a truly sublime experience get the Clams in White Sauce.  Big, full clams tossed in spaghetti with olive oil, white wine and garlic.  Of the many variations I have tried of this dish over the years this is hands down the best.  Not on the menu, but always available, is White Pizza – a bit of a tradition at one of Ed’s other restaurants, Mama ‘Zu.

The handwritten items on the wall allow availability of the freshest items.  Some of the fishes may be served roasted whole but if you like robust flavors try any item that they have listed as ‘fra diavlo’.  Edo’s manages to walk the fine line between spicy heat while still tasting the main ingredients.  Most recently they had monkfish served this way and I can say I was a bit unwilling to share.  Oddly, Edo’s also serves one of the best steaks in town.  Their Grilled Hanger Steak is always perfectly cooked for us with a crispy crust and a juicy interior.  Like so many of the entrées this one is really large enough for two and they do encourage (actually insist if the party is over 4) that everything is served family style.

Edo’s has got a bit of a bad rap for service.  Most of that is myth and Richmonder’s propensity for a shared experience to complain about.  What it actually is, is competent verging on brusque.  Is that a problem?  Not really.  Sit at the bar on a Saturday night and watch the staff.  They are constantly moving.  No standing around gossiping, no hanging out in the wait station sipping a cup of coffee/wine, everyone is in motion keeping everyone fed.  I’ve actually seen a table cleared, reset and people being taken toward it before the previous diners have left the restaurant.

Something else to remember here is the cost.  It is pretty reasonable.  If you stick to pastas you can get out real cheap and when you consider that most entrées are nearly big enough for two the per person prices drops even more.  The Italian heavy wine list will not gouge you either.  Also, they do continuous service all day long – a good way to beat the crowds to enjoy an app or two with a glass of wine in the piece of the afternoon.

I was recently asked to help out at Richmond Magazine with their Top 25 Restaurants issue that just hit the stands a few days ago.  Tina E did a great job as my editor, taking my rather lengthy thoughts and condensing them down to a more reasonable length for the feature.  You should rush out a get a copy and read it – if that leaves you wanting a bit more then here is the full piece on Coast……

It’s always sad to see a favorite restaurant close.  Especially when one closes abruptly, like Enoteca Sogna did on November 28^th, not due to a lack of business but over landlord issues and an overly boisterous new neighbor.  The good news is that owner/chef Gary York has a new restaurant over on Grove & Libbie in the old Du Jour space called Coast.  The question is, does Coast live up to the high expectations one would have after dining at Enoteca?  In a word, yes.

At first glance the restaurant feels familiar.  Muted wall colors and sparse décor, much like Enoteca.  The food, however, is completely different.  Instead of Italian classics the emphasis is on seafood.  Starters for dinner include such inventive dishes as Fried Oysters with a Tarragon Remoulade or my personal favorite, Seared Sea Scallops in Chive Butter with Serrano Ham.   The perfectly crusted scallops remain moist in the center while the richness of the chive butter and the saltiness of the ham make every bite enjoyable.

Two of the entrées are real standouts.  Normally, I am not a fan of grits (Why, yes, I am not from the South).  The Shrimp and Grits, however, may make me re-think that stance.  Stone-ground, the grits add texture and become the perfect vehicle for enjoying the rich sherry and garlic cream sauce with the tasty shrimp.  The signature dish for Coast is their Crab Cakes.  Made with Jumbo Lump Crab, no fillers and just enough binder to hold it together the taste and textures of the crab shine through.  The sauce the last time I was in sounded a bit pedestrian at first, tartar sauce, but the homemade taste with just enough sweetness was memorable enough for me to turn my noise up at any jar tartar sauce that I may be offered in the future.

Lunch tends successfully towards the decadent.  Kobe Burger with White Vermont Cheddar and Caramelized Onions?  Got it.  How about a BLT with locally made bacon and topped with a fried egg?  Even a simple Ham & Cheese gets stepped up a notch when served with Fontina cheese and on brioche.  If it’s cold, or just because they are good, don’t skip the soups.  Seasonal favorites like Butternut Squash are full of creamy goodness can be had for the soup du jour or you can go a little spicier with the Roasted Red Pepper with Jumbo Lump Crab.  There are even lunch portions of the Shrimp & Grits or the Crab Cake as a sandwich – a nice way to sample before taking the big plunge for dinner.

Like Enoteca, it’s all about the food.  Since they use only the freshest ingredients the menu is short to avoid items sitting too long or needing to be frozen.  The restaurant is also small so get there early or make a reservation to ensure you can get seated.  Applications are in to cover the patio so it can be used year round – assuming the city cooperates.  And if you are missing Enoteca, never fear, they are close to signing a lease on a new space and hope to be re-opened sometime in the first half of 2010.  Here’s to hoping Gary is successful.

I was recently asked to help out at Richmond Magazine with their Top 25 Restaurants issue that just hit the stands a few days ago.  Tina E did a great job as my editor, taking my rather lengthy thoughts and condensing them down to a more reasonable length for the feature.  You should rush out a get a copy and read it – if that leaves you wanting a bit more then here is the full piece on Can-Can……

If I didn’t have a kitchen, Can-Can could easily provide me with all my meals.  Really, I mean it.

Except for Sundays – when Can-Can serves an excellent brunch – they don’t actually have a breakfast menu but what they do have is, in a way, much better.  Opening at 7:00 AM they serve a rotating array of pastries, croissant and fresh breads with jams – all baked in-house.  Sample a Pecan Madeleine or their amazing Almond Croissant and you’ll stop here rather than a fast food drive through any day of the week.  Pair that with a pot of fresh coffee, tea or hot chocolate and you’ll get up a few minutes early, bring your newspaper (or laptop – they do have wi-fi) and have a relaxing start to your day with someone else doing the clean-up.

Skip out of the office for lunch and get recharged with happy taste buds for the remainder of the day.  While some dishes are available year-round, Croque Monsieur or add an egg for the Madame, the menu rotates to take advantage of seasonal items and desires.  Cold winter days are made less nasty after a Braised Lamb Sandwich or a Fried Oyster BLT and if you’re under the weather try the Butternut Squash Soup, the creamy goodness won’t cure you but you will feel much better.

Don’t be concerned if you are running a bit late for lunch.  Can-Can does continuous service and has an afternoon café menu.  The burger is one of the best in town, with a difficulty bonus for being able to serve them rare or medium rare perfectly and without complaint, and the pommes frites are second to none.  If you’re looking for something else then try the Moules Frites, mussels and fries.  While the traditional white wine and garlic is excellent try the mustard, tarragon and pancetta.  The creamy flavor combination of the mustard sauce and mussels will bring conversation to a halt.

Dinner takes Can-Can’s French Bistro theme to its height.  From Escargot to Beouf Tartar for starters (most available in half orders so you can sample more) to Sole Meuniere or Grilled Hanger Steak Bordelaise for entrees you will forget you are in Richmond.  The French wine list can be a bit intimidating but have no fear, just flag down the beverage manager, Bob Talbot, who has probably forgotten more about wine then I currently know.  Starting in January they will also offer a prix fixe menu – entrée and soup or salad for $20 – a nice option in these tough economic times.

One can even swing by after a movie.  Can-Can doesn’t close till 1:00 AM (2:00 on Friday and Saturday) making it the perfect place to stop for a dessert (all, including sorbets and ice creams, made in-house) a cheese plate or an after-dinner drink.

What is possibly the most amazing thing is that Can-Can does all this and does it so well.  Most restaurants that try to do too much lose consistency and simply become mediocre.  Yep, I could eat all my meals here.